Journey To Ladakh With my Enfield
Deepak Sharma decided to bike it alone to Ladakh when his friend fell sick mid-way. He says the trip made him believe that everything falls into place when you really want it to. His story and useful travel tips for other solo riders.
The breathtaking Jispa Pass in Himachal Pradesh
At dawn, I saddled my Royal Enfield with the bare necessities and set out on the long road to Ladakh with a friend who was on his own bike. It was during the monsoon season and I expected the ride to be challenging. But the road from Gurgaon to Kiratpur Sahib was easy enough--a series of shifting landscapes. However, my friend fell ill and at Manali decided to cancel going up. That's when I decided to embark on a solo ride and it turned out to be the best decision I have ever made. However, the terrain was not easy. On crossing Rohtang La, I discovered how fickle the trail can be. There wasn't any road to speak of. Only a meandering path across a sheet of ice interspersed with ditches. But my bike did not fail me. As always!
I would love to declare that I had an incredible ride, with no horrible events. But that wasn't the case. In a hurry to cover as much distance as possible in a day, and trying to reach far-flung destinations led to some unpleasant incidents as well. During my halt at Srinagar, for example, two men blocked my way on the bike and shouted 'We hate Indians'. I felt disgusted but didn't react and went ahead and spent the night in Srinagar. I left early the next morning, though I originally had plans to stay and explore the place. After the incident I just didn't feel like. When you are travelling solo, it is advisable to not get into any sort of squabble because it could be risky.
The frozen Bara-lacha la Pass
Of course I was scared but I persisted
I knew it was a wild idea, as many had pointed out, but the idea and the thrill of riding across India was too hard to resist. My family is now attuned and doesn't question me anymore when it comes to my bizarre travel ideas though they feel scared at times because riding or driving solo can be dangerous, and one needs to be alert and fully prepared. Driving all alone through unknown highways, the reputation of the Manali-Leh stretch, were all in my mind but I still went ahead. I never knew whether I would be able to reach Leh with the kind of hurdles I encountered on my way but all I wanted to see was how far my bike and I could make it, despite all the obstacles.
My learnings
And just like that, the journey became worthwhile. Suddenly the mountains rose from the earth. And I realized how sublime it is to be small. Suddenly the journey led to Pangong Lake. And I realized how deep the blue truly is. We spend our lives trying to be big. Wanting to be important. And one day we come face to face with the vastness of nature. We stand in awe of the mountains touching the sky. And truly savour the stillness in the silence. One day we realize how small we are--and how wonderful it truly is. This trip made me believe that everything falls into place when you really want it to. Once you embrace the true spirit of the journey, it reveals itself to you. On the bike, moving through the slim, creeping edges, my mind was empty, without thought; my body was just moving through time and space. It was a beautiful experience now that I think back.
When Manali shines in all its glory
Tips for a solo traveller
I followed the route from Delhi-Chandigarh-Manali-Rohtang Pass. Crossing Rohtang Pass was the most painful patch for me because my bike engine was filled with water, my boots and trousers were all wet and cold, but somehow I survived that stretch and felt like a winner. I was on the road for 14 days and am now preparing for another solo ride soon. A few tips that I would like to give every solo rider would be:
- Keep 2-3 pairs of shoes with you.
- You should carry a few pairs of warm socks, a riding jacket, and knee and elbow guards.
- Keep a can of petrol because there are stretches where you might not find any filling station and a can of petrol can be quite handy.
- It is good to keep some stuff to eat like dry fruits and cookies and of course water.
- It is also very important to know how to repair your bike (at least some basic stuff) because you might not get mechanics while crossing a few patches.
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